If grape growers and winemakers in Italy thought they had experienced a difficult growing season in 2022 with its double attack of extreme heat and a pronounced drought, they must have wondered what they did to deserve the weather in 2023.
Along with bouts of severe heat so typical these past several years, vintners, especially those in central and southern Italy, had to endure excessive rains, which in turn caused serious instances of peronospora, a mold that causes severe damage to the vine. All of this meant lower quantities almost everywhere, although most producers have reported excellent quality.
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Here are thoughts from producers from several regions in Italy on the 2023 growing season and harvest.
Piedmont
At Albino Rocca in Barbaresco, Daniela Rocca noted the very dry winter followed by a very rainy May, which caused a late start to summer, which in her recollection began in the vineyards in early July; unfortunately just then, a big hailstorm hit part of her vineyards. She reports that she did not have problems with peronospora, as the late start of the growing season spared their plants.
Federica Boffa of Pio Cesare in Alba was pleased with their Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Timorasso picked during the first days of September; "we were extremely happy with the quality, acidities, perfumes and complexities". She labeled 2023 as a "resilient vintage", with summer "lasting until October with sunny days, blue skies, warm temperatures during the days and cooler ones at night – perfect weather for Nebbiolo".
Matteo Molino at Mauro Molino in La Morra recalled two days of intense rainfall at the end of August that "guaranteed a good ripening of Nebbiolo grapes". Molino predicts great 2023 Barolo.
Pietro Ratti in Annunziata noted that the alcohol levels are less than those of 2022, while a severe thinning of the crop was extremely helpful for the up and down summer weather.
Stefano Gagliardo of Gianni Gagliardo in La Morra stated that "the quality of 2023 is a miracle". His reasoning is that he saw extreme climatic conditions throughout the growing season, first with a great deal of rain, followed by near drought conditions and then a fall with a summery climate. "The new wines show complexity, cleanliness and excellent tannic quality."
Alto Adige
At the Elena Walch winery in Tramin, Karoline Walch noted that after a challenging spring and early summer with above average rains, “from late July onwards, we were blessed with a lot of sunshine and dry weather.”
She labeled early autumn as "phenomenal", noting that they were able to harvest "peacefully and slowly". On October 5, harvest for their Gewürztraminer Vigna Kastelaz took place. "I do not remember the last time we picked Gewürztraminer in October." Overall, she reports very good acidity levels, alcohol levels that are in line with previous years, with average quantities.
Veneto
Sandro Boscaini at Masi, one of the premier Amarone estates, recalled the long period of summer rains that lead to fungal attacks, but also contributed to "luxuriant development in the plants and fruit. Abnormal temperatures in August slowed down the metabolic activity of the vines, resulting on average of six to seven days delay in ripening compared to 2022."
Riccardo Tedeschi at the family estate in Valpolicella Classico commented that the winery had "gone the route of environmental sustainability … we have been able to intervene and combat disease in an intentional and targeted manner. We have had no issues with either peronospora or powdery mildew. Thus far the grapes harvested for Amarone have an excellent appearance. It is expected that the wines will have great structure, good color, and interesting aromas as well as even greater freshness, relative to 2021."
Tuscany
Barbara Widmer, winemaker at Brancaia in Radda in Chianti noted that quantity for their grapes in Chianti, due to heavy rains in May and June have resulted in "well below average" totals. Peronospora was a problem in Chianti, especially for her Merlot, which she notes is "much more sensitive", and accordingly her loss there was bigger.
She did report on the excellent growing season in the Maremma along the coast. "Our grapes have ripened evenly and with optimal quantities per plant … a great vintage in every respect!"
Marche
Gianluca Mirizzi at Montecappone, a leading Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi producer, commented on the particular weather this year.
"For the fourth time in a row, the Marche region had a warmer winter than normal, and even spring was warmer than the last two." Stranger still was the fact that even with the heat, it rained 26 percent greater than the historical average. He noted that due to the rains, powdery mildew was a problem. Overall, he remarks that the acidity levels are very good and that the sugar levels for his red grapes will be more balanced compared to last year.
Also in the Jesi area, Leo Felici of the Andrea Felici estate in Apiro, noted the "exceptional nature of rainfall in May and June … rainfall that had not been seen in decades". He comments that the abundant rainfall and low temperatures slowed down the vegetative developments of the plants. Thankfully, there was little rainfall in September, along with significant temperature variations between day and night, with the result being positive repercussions for the quality of the grapes.
Abruzzo
Heavy rains in May and June caused problems throughout the region; for Elena Nicodemi of the eponymous family estate in Nicodemi, the 2023 growing season has a less-than-positive image. "Regarding the harvest," she says, "I wish someone would wake me up and tell me it was a nightmare. We lost 50-55 percent of production."
She remarked that some local producers did not even harvest Montepulciano, "so we can consider ourselves lucky". She noted that the quality of the grapes is very good, but she expects the alcoholic content to be a little higher.
Campania
Piero Mastroberardino of the historic estate in Atripalda recalled that in March and April, drops in temperature caused a delay in the vegetative growth of one to two weeks compared to previous years. Heat waves in July and August, followed by sunny days in cool night made for the ideal climate for excellent ripening conditions. "The quality of the grapes is extremely high, over the expectations. On the other hand, the quantities are very low."
At Donnachiara in Irpinia, Ilaria Petitto labeled 2023, "a flash harvest. I define it like this, as is has never lasted so short." Noting the low quantities, she says: "There are vineyards that have made one-tenth of their production. In Montefalcione, we harvested half the quantity we did last year." Still, she is positive about quality, stating that is it "amazing".
Antonio Capaldo at Feudi di San Gregorio in Sorbo Serpico reported a 30-percent reduction in yields for Falanghina and Fiano, 50 percent for Aglianico and 60 percent for Greco. "Quality appears very good, and if conditions continue as they are now, we will have a remarkable Taurasi vintage."
Sicily – Etna
Diego Cusumano of Alta Mora noted that he had no problems with peronospora in his vineyards, and only endured one light hailstorm in one of his contrade.
"Production of Carricante in our vineyards on the northern slope of Mt Etna is slightly below expectations. But we are just starting the harvest, and the quality seems excellent."
At Palmento Costanzo, situated in the Santo Spirito contrada, proprietor Valeria Agosta Costanzo, pointed out that at an elevation of 700 meters, the vines had time to recover from premature downy mildew caused by a great deal of rain in May. "Regarding the last two to three years, the harvest was anticipated due to the hot temperatures."
